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Weekend Two
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This Weekend the car is on the rack again. Our
reproduction taillight lenses came in today, so we began fitting
them on our project car. I'm thinking about more Euro specs since
I'm getting rid of the sidemarkers. Our set of two B914
631 939 40 Euro Lens, set of two B914
631 951 10 Italian Lens, or the ever popular set of two USA
lenses B914
631 960 13. The floor pan and firewall restoration is now ready
for sealing and coating. (Note the original gray Boge shocks.)
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| More rust repair and stabilization.
The old engine shelf had to be cut out. The engine shelf and inner
wheelhouse are good repairs for the type of rust seen here. A new
engine shelf (Engine
Shelf (B914 501 012 11) area is prepared for welding along with the outer
firewall. The passenger engine mount is removed and a new one installed
as well as the inner
wheelhouse (B914 501 944 20C). |
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| The longitudinal is repaired as is
the inner wheelhouse in the battery area. The rust impregnated water
runs right down the frame pools against the firewall, rusts it through,
and leaks right into the passenger compartment at the rear of the
right rocker carpeting under the back pad. In our quest to keep as
much of the original car as possible, we only installed a partial
engine
shelf (91450101211)
but installed the complete engine mounting pod because of its structural
signifigance. Matt has done a beautiful installation of the engine
mount and right floor pan triangle. Many of you rusty 914 owners
may want to install a suspension
console (B914 501 044A). These reproduction parts make the rust repair of these
914 pieces look simple. |
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| Beautifully restored engine shelf
and passenger mount area. Matt then cut out rust at the engine lid
release cable tube and the repaired inner firewall. Properly supported
and the left rocker panel over removed to inspect the inner rocker
rust. Great close-up photo of the repaired driver's engine shelf. We
will sandblast the area soon and then treat with POR15
rust preventative (part number GR6003). |
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| We repaired driver's side engine shelf.
The rust is always more comprehensive than one thinks at first, but
I still feel pretty good about the progress. Note the amount of rust
at the engine release. This is caused by the clogged engine shelf
drain. It is great cutting out all this cancer. Once again, Matt
does fabulous work. |
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| These pictures show some close ups
of the holes in the outer firewall and inner wheelhouse. The battery
tray and support removed reveals the inner firewall damage. We have
to replace this rusted engine mount! Battery acid strikes again!
We're certainly closing the gaps in the rust repair. Soon the repairs
will end and the more fun will begin. I must admit Dr. 914 has been
very helpful in the rust reapir, but the dreamers around me are making
hime nervous with what is to come. |
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Take a look at what a difference a flare makes! These flares
are very easy to install! The rear flares, installed by our excellent
welder Matt, are first marked for position. Then Matt has screwed
the flare to the existing fender. The flare is then removed and
the existing fender is cut, leaving about 1/2" of overlapping
metal. The flare is re-screwed into the same holes and the welding
begins. What a great home-hobbiest way of installation. You'll
be able to do this in your own garage. Once the flare is welded
on, the underside will still have the 1/2 inch of metal overlap.
That lip will later be tapped into place and then seam sealed
adding strength to the weld.
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| DR. 914 DOES NOT
APPROVE OF THIS METHOD!!! |
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I'm forced to tell you that Dr. 914 hates the way these rear flares
have been installed. Tim, our metal man who stamped the flares
for us, (see http://autoatlanta.com/life/gt.html)
also hates this screw and overlap method. Tim was so appalled that
he insisted on installing the front fares under Dr.914's supervision
to show me the correct way. WARNING, the "correct way" should be
studied carefully before attempting. As for me, I think that most
home hobbiests will agree my screw method, while down and dirty,
is easy and can be performed by one person. REMEMBER: I am not
building a concours car to wipe with a diaper, but rather a driver
that will make heads turn!
Our
repro flares, extremely popular (B914 503 908 00)
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