Weekend Two
This Weekend the car is on the rack again. Our reproduction taillight lenses came in today, so we began fitting them on our project car. I'm thinking about more Euro specs since I'm getting rid of the sidemarkers. Our set of two B914 631 939 40 Euro Lens, set of two B914 631 951 10 Italian Lens, or the ever popular set of two USA lenses B914 631 960 13. The floor pan and firewall restoration is now ready for sealing and coating. (Note the original gray Boge shocks.)

More rust repair and stabilization. The old engine shelf had to be cut out. The engine shelf and inner wheelhouse are good repairs for the type of rust seen here. A new engine shelf (Engine Shelf (B914 501 012 11) area is prepared for welding along with the outer firewall. The passenger engine mount is removed and a new one installed as well as the inner wheelhouse (B914 501 944 20C).
The longitudinal is repaired as is the inner wheelhouse in the battery area. The rust impregnated water runs right down the frame pools against the firewall, rusts it through, and leaks right into the passenger compartment at the rear of the right rocker carpeting under the back pad. In our quest to keep as much of the original car as possible, we only installed a partial engine shelf (91450101211) but installed the complete engine mounting pod because of its structural signifigance. Matt has done a beautiful installation of the engine mount and right floor pan triangle. Many of you rusty 914 owners may want to install a suspension console (B914 501 044A). These reproduction parts make the rust repair of these 914 pieces look simple.
Beautifully restored engine shelf and passenger mount area. Matt then cut out rust at the engine lid release cable tube and the repaired inner firewall. Properly supported and the left rocker panel over removed to inspect the inner rocker rust. Great close-up photo of the repaired driver's engine shelf.  We will sandblast the area soon and then treat with POR15 rust preventative (part number GR6003).
We repaired driver's side engine shelf. The rust is always more comprehensive than one thinks at first, but I still feel pretty good about the progress. Note the amount of rust at the engine release. This is caused by the clogged engine shelf drain. It is great cutting out all this cancer. Once again, Matt does fabulous work.
These pictures show some close ups of the holes in the outer firewall and inner wheelhouse. The battery tray and support removed reveals the inner firewall damage. We have to replace this rusted engine mount! Battery acid strikes again! We're certainly closing the gaps in the rust repair. Soon the repairs will end and the more fun will begin. I must admit Dr. 914 has been very helpful in the rust reapir, but the dreamers around me are making hime nervous with what is to come.
       

Take a look at what a difference a flare makes! These flares are very easy to install! The rear flares, installed by our excellent welder Matt, are first marked for position. Then Matt has screwed the flare to the existing fender. The flare is then removed and the existing fender is cut, leaving about 1/2" of overlapping metal. The flare is re-screwed into the same holes and the welding begins. What a great home-hobbiest way of installation. You'll be able to do this in your own garage. Once the flare is welded on, the underside will still have the 1/2 inch of metal overlap. That lip will later be tapped into place and then seam sealed adding strength to the weld.

 
DR. 914 DOES NOT APPROVE OF THIS METHOD!!!

I'm forced to tell you that Dr. 914 hates the way these rear flares have been installed. Tim, our metal man who stamped the flares for us, (see http://autoatlanta.com/life/gt.html) also hates this screw and overlap method. Tim was so appalled that he insisted on installing the front fares under Dr.914's supervision to show me the correct way. WARNING, the "correct way" should be studied carefully before attempting. As for me, I think that most home hobbiests will agree my screw method, while down and dirty, is easy and can be performed by one person. REMEMBER: I am not building a concours car to wipe with a diaper, but rather a driver that will make heads turn!

Our repro flares, extremely popular (B914 503 908 00)

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At West Coast Classic! - Pg. 1 Pg. 2 Pg. 3