Weekend Eight
As you can see from the rear trunk full of goodies, we ratcheting up our progress each week. I wasn't quite happy with the placement of the rollcage in relation to the top and how the top catches secure through the bars. So, using the "last six" here at AutoAtlanta as my guide we decided to modify the cage (the cage fits fine, and I'm only modifying this because I'm crazy). So, we cut the top bar near the front and relocated it about 8 inches forward. You'll be able to see it through the windshield. It may interfere with the sunvisors, but not the rear view mirror. (Rollcage part number: SEP2V). In the picture on the far right you can see Garett holding the upper dash face kit (part number: 91455202110
You can see the area where the rollcage was affected which we will smooth and paint when finished. You can really see the instrument pod come together now. I am using an black aluminum pod (part number MB24172) which has room for 5 gauges. I have chosen AutoMeter gauges with white faces and blue instrument lightbulbs. The only confusion is going to be the dummy lights. What is what?! Everything plugs up in this configuration wire for wire. The only modification is the speedo. The speedo here is the 160 MPH and the cable will need an adapter that we also sell. For this cluster I chose the Memory Recall Tach (part number: AM5795); 160 MPH Speedometer (part number: AM5893); Oil Pressure (part number: AM5727); Fuel Gauge (part number: AM5715); and a Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (part number: AM5775) which will also require an O2 kit (part number: AM2244). I have decided on installing two O2 kits, one for each side.
To the left you can see the completed gauge cluster. We also have a gauge cluster pre-made with carbon fiber gauges from AutoMeter (part number: MB24172G). Dr. 914 couldn't bare seeing us cut holes into a virgin hood. So we agreed to trying a fiberglass hood (part number: 91451190300). The hood is very high quality and bolted right on just fine. We played with it a while, but not wanting any fiberglass on the car (afterall I could have put fiberglass flares for that matter), we took it back off. I'm not selling the fiberglass hood down the river just yet, the idea of the weight savings is quite appealing. We found a nice, used, slightly damaged hood out back, and opted to try that. The supports under the hood had been popped loose, but no big deal. Used hoods are great in this condition and perfect for us to drill holes into (part number: 91451100110).
Next we pulled a pair of used seats from the yard. All I need is the fiberglass shells (part number: 91452101009 and 91452106114). These seats will be stripped down to shells and then the process of converting them to sport seats will begin. Wait until you see these new sport seats... The used hood fits just as good as I knew it would. Now we're ready to drill some holes for the hood pins. Are the hood pins needed? Yes, if the hood is fiberglass. Pins are also good if the car is going to be on the track (part number: GT26A). Shawn continues to install the gauge cluster.
Here you can see Dr. 914 driving away in his complete 1976 914. He is leaving us to continue work on this Sunday. The way I see it some people decide to settle while some need to have the extreme!
Here you can see the hood pins (part number GT26A) going in. Two pins bolt right in, while if you have four, you'll need two extra braces for support. These braces are easily tacked into place. Lastly for weekend 8, we place the instrument pod into place. This is going to look fantastic with the all white dash facing we have planned for later. We're ready to start taping and preparing for paint. The wheels also came in and are being mounted with our Toyo tires. Stay tuned for next week.