Proper valve adjustment is critical to proper engine operation. Since the 914 engine is air cooled, it operates in a much broader temperature range than a water cooled car, resulting in more extreme expansion and contraction. This movement necessitates periodic valve adjustment.

Tools required:

• Feeler gauge of at least 8" in length to access the adjuster
• Pry bar screwdriver to unlatch the valve cover bales and turn the front fan
• Spark plug wrench
• Tire tool, jack, jackstands
• Crate, milk carton, or small step ladder to stand on
• 13 mm box wrench to loosen locking nut valve adjuster
• Short wide-bladed screwdriver to turn the adjusting lugs
• A small piece of cardboard with a 90 degree edge
• Stick of bright white touch-up paint
• 2 valve cover gaskets
• Can of Brake Clean
• Several valve adjusting lugs

We begin by removing the spark plugs, the timing hole plug and unclipping the distributor cap. With the spark plugs removed, one should be able to turn the fan by hand, although the pry bar can assist through the timing hole. Make sure you pry against the rear of the fan blades as the front of the blades are unattached and will easily shear. (You may notice that some of the blades are already missing from past mistakes! If more than three in a row are missing, you must replace the fan.) Turn the fan until you notice the "0" mark show through the timing hole (on 1.8 liter engines this is the red 7 degree mark and on 1.7, 2.0 it is either stamped "0" or a white mark. Do not mistake the "0" mark for the (1.7, 2.0) 27 degree BTDC (Before top dead center) mark which is located just to the right passenger side of one of four big, thick fan blades.) Lift the distributor cap and observe the distributor rotor. The firing portion should face towards the number one spark plug wire tower. If your distributor is installed properly, the rotor will be in the 10 o'clock position (considering the front of the car is 12 o'clock). If the rotor is facing 180 degrees opposite, turn the fan again until the "0" degree mark shows and the rotor will now be pointing towards the number one spark plug tower. We are now ready to adjust the valves on the number one spark plug tower. We are now ready to adjust the valves on the number one cylinder (the driver's side rear cylinder).

Loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car (under the engine mounting bar) to a height where, in a sitting position, the fender well clears your head. Place jackstands under the jacking donuts and make sure the car rests solidly. It is wise to leave the jack under the car - just in case. Remove the left valve cover by wedging the bale from the cover. Valve adjustment access is tight, so it takes practice to perfect the technique.

Since we have already set up to adjust cylinder number one, we can adjust those valves (both intake and exhaust) immediately. Slide the feeler gauge in between the adjusting lug and the top of the valve "feeling" the gap. Valves in perfect adjustment nip the gauge snugly; valves too loose let the tool sloppily slide in. Valves too tight will not let the gauge pass. To adjust, loosen the 13 mm locking nut with the box wrench and turn the lug with the short screwdriver. It is a good idea at this time to inspect the valve adjusting lugs for damage by completely unscrewing the lug from the rocker arm. (1973 2.0 valve adjusting lugs will not unscrew without removing the rocker arm assemblies, so don't try it!) Slight wear on the bottom of the lug is common, however, if the lug looks pock-marked, it needs replacement. Adjusting lugs worn in this manner will cause premature valve stem wearout and a noisy power train! Adjust both intake and exhaust valves of the number one cylinder, then snug the locking nuts. Specifications for adjustment are as follows:1970-75 1.7 and 1.8 .006 inches

1973-76 2.0 .006 intake/.008 exhaustThe intake valves are always the two in the middle of the rocker arm assembly and exhaust valves are the outboard two. We are now ready to adjust the number four or the passenger side front cylinder.
Standing on our milk carton (unless you are 6'8"), we recheck the timing mark to make sure it has not moved and then hold our 90 degree angled cardboard on top of the rotor, rotating the fan until the rotor moves 90 degrees clockwise. (The firing point of the rotor will move from being in line with one side of the cardboard to being in line with the other side.) The reason we do this is to align the exact firing point for the number four cylinder. (The engine fires each of the 90 degrees as the distributor rotates clockwise 1, 4, 3, 2.) When we have established that the rotor has moved exactly 90 degrees, we then look down at the fan through the timing hole and use our white touch-up to mark the fan in the "V" observation notch. This mark now gives us a reference point for the firing of the number 4 and the number 2 cylinders. (Remember the "0" for (1.7, 2.0) or the red mark (1.8) are still the firing points for number 1 and 3 cylinders.) We now adjust the number four. or the passenger side cylinder, in the manner previously described.

After adjusting the number four cylinder, we again go to the top of the engine and turn the fan. This causes the rotor to move clockwise another 90 degrees to the firing point of the number three cylinder. There is no need to use the cardboard as when we achieve the 90 degree clockwise turn, the white (or red 1.8) timing mark will again show! We then adjust the number three, or the passenger side rear cylinder again by the method previously described. Our final valve to adjust is of course number two, or the driver's side front cylinder.
When we turn the fan and watch the rotor move clockwise its final 90 degrees, we will see our painted mark show when the 90 degrees is achieved. We finally adjust number two in the manner previously described and then recheck the valve adjusting nut tightness on all cylinders.

Installing the valve covers is next. If you want to avoid leaks, please read thoroughly! Carefully check the valve cover gasket mounting surfaces for leftover gasket material, glue or other debris. Clean the entire cover with Brake Clean or mineral spirits and dry thoroughly. Place the valve cover gasket into the cover, pushing it into the two holders and stretching the shape so it sits perfectly in the cover. If the gasket is kinked or crooked, you may use a slight dot of black weather-strip adhesive to hold the gasket's shape in the cover. Do not use gasket cement or glue - it makes a mess, could fall into the engine and could make it difficult to remove the covers when valve adjustment is next due.

Place the valve cover against the cylinder head squarely holding it tightly down and wedge the bale over the cover with the pry bar. If you don't hold the cover tightly while wedging the bale , it will cockeye and you will have to begin the whole process again.
When you are sure the valve covers are properly seated, climb back to the top of the engine, clip on the distributor cap, install the spark plugs, screw in the timing hole plug and then start the engine. It is important here to let the engine run for five minutes to check for leaks and excessive valve train noise. Leaks are caused by cockeyed valve covers and noise: a mis-adjusted valve.
If everything checks out, install the wheels and tires and snug the lug bolts. Jack the car up, remove the jackstands and let the car down. Torque the lug bolts to 90 foot pounds.

Congratulations!! You have now completed a proper 914 valve adjust and have helped assure long engine life and optimum performance!

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